Log 17: Tributes, Viewpoints, and other Pit Stops Closest to the Sun (Sort of)

The sun peeked out from the horizon as we roll out of bed aboard Belafonte in Long Island, Bahamas. Several days of exploring Clarence Town, Dean’s Blue Hole, and other spots near our anchorage, we decide to follow the advice of other cruisers, guidebooks, and locals, and rent a car for the day to explore the island’s interior. We pack a day bag and head to the dock to pick up the rental.

Here, you drive on the left side of the road. Much different than our United States right-lane brain. We hop in the car to see the steering wheel on the right side of the vehicle. Also, very different than back home! Add on the fact that all the buttons are in Japanese, and neither one of us have driven a car in months since sailing full-time, we laugh nervously, and get going on our quick little day trip up the lengthy island. (Trying to press as little buttons as possible).

We decide to head north first. Driving through the winding pothole filled road that skirts up the entire island, we look out the windows to see the roadside lined with thick brushy vegetation. We pass several abandoned buildings, overtaken by vines. The occasional street corners have little markets, small businesses, and the sporadic gambling hall. There are plenty of churches, and we take mental note of the marine supply store. We pass a school with children sitting neatly in a row in a shaded outdoor auditorium. While this Bahamian island rocks tropical shorelines, the drive reminds me of an old quaint country town.

Long Island is also a unique spot because it sits in the Tropic of Cancer, Earth’s most northerly line of latitude where the sun can be seen directly overhead. Specifically, during the June solstice. It also marks the northern boundary of the true tropics, with the Tropic of Capricorn lining the southern border of the tropic’s range. When we passed the sign, we had to stop and snap a photo. We sailed through the Tropic of Cancer! Time to buy more sunscreen…

Continuing north, we swing into an outdoor bar and grill equipped with a palm thatched roof and a spectacular ocean view. A couple fish sandwiches later we find ourselves walking the shoreline to find a nearby “pool” cut into the limestone rocks. When the tide rolls in, ta-da, kitty pool! We hike back up to our little Nissan and drive to our first official “sight-seeing” stop, the Lucayan Memorial/Columbus Monument.

This beautiful monument honors the indigenous Lucayan peoples who once lived here, and the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492. We park the car and walk the path up cement stairs towards it. The monument sits upon tall white limestone cliffs, with the gorgeous Caribbean blue water surrounding them. The views are truly incredible. I touched on the towering white cliffs in Log 15, but standing on top of them is a completely different breath-taking view. We think about the tribes who once lived here and imagine the emotions and reactions when Columbus’ caravel ship arose from the horizon. We give our respects and buckle up again to drive south.

Making our way back down the winding road, we make a couple stops to check out viewpoints and visit the marine supplies store. We pick up new bands for our pole spears, a new pair of fins for me, and a new mask for Brendan. It was the most well stocked marine supply store we saw in the Bahamas thus far – so sailors take note – plus the air conditioner actually worked.

The day was flying by, but there was still one last place I really wanted to check out before the “buggy hours” of sunset approached, the Shrimp Hole! The locals recommended it, and we heard good things about it from our buds on S/V Granite Chief, so we followed Google maps to the location pin. We arrive, guided by a small sign on the side of the road.

We enter the property, and our first sights are an old, abandoned church with a tower and cracked walls. Plants grow from its roof (or what little is left of it anyways). Are you sure we’re in the right place? Assured by the sign, we walk forward to see an arrow pointing at the trail entrance to the Shrimp Hole. But how could I not peek into this mysterious chapel first?

I step through the arched doorway and survey the large room. Lichen and moss have claimed the weathered stone walls as their home. Most of the antique wood windows are blown out, but some still hang on with their rusty locks. I watch my step for rubble and unremitting plants crawling through the worn cemented and fractured floors. I stare at the lasting architecture and wonder, what happened here? We later heard this was an Anglican church that was built by the Spanish in the 1600’s. I exit the chapel ruins and we walk down the trail to the Shrimp Hole.

The rocky trail leads us up and around until we see a cave through the trees. The mosquitoes are terrible, but we’ve already come this far. No turning back now! We approach the cave to see the bottom of it filled with crystal clear water. Walking closer, we see little ruby red dots on the aquatic cave floor… they’re shrimp!

We watch the tiny brightly colored red shrimp walk along the rocks. They are everywhere! Small crabs peer at us from behind the jagged rock walls. We watch the cute fiery-red shrimp nibble on algae, interact with each other, and slink around the cave floor and walls. They were much different from the ones we found in the Exumas. Finally, the mosquitoes were becoming too much, so we decided to call it and jog back to the car.

On the road back to the Clarence Town anchorage, we spot one of the Bahamian sloops from the Georgetown Family Island Regatta being trailered home. We wave hello to the familiar sight and grab dinner. A handful of chicken wings (yes, we spoiled ourselves) and a couple extra photo stops along the way home, we settle back into the boat, and start thinking about our next move. Sailing to Great Inagua, the southernmost end of the beautiful Bahamas island chain.  

~ Day 79