Log 16: Endless Depths ~ Dean’s Blue Hole

Suspended in the clear cool water, I watch sand slowly drip from an underwater ledge into the abyss below me. I lock eyes on a black particle in the sand. It funnels down like a leaf floating on a flowing river toward the edge, and then pours into deep shades of blue circles around a shadowed black center. Imaginably, never to be seen or noticed again. I feel light and heavy all at the same time. I float inside the second deepest blue hole in the world, like a bird flying between skyscrapers or deep canyons. However, gravity in my gut looms while I silently witness the sand particles slowly fall from their slippery seats. In the way smoke dances upward, it smoothly cascades down into a dark hole that few have ever seen the bottom of. Like an hourglass, the sand keeps falling, and the timer keeps running.

A couple days ago, we sailed into Clarence Town, Long Island, Bahamas. We had a stormy ride here (Log 15) but settled in on arrival just fine. We spent a day or two exploring the town by foot, finding coconuts, and meeting the welcoming committee of reef sharks at the dinghy dock. Our friends from S/V Amy Renae (YouTube & Instagram : @motherloadsailing) invited us to join them for an adventure the following day, and we were thrilled to tag along.

The sun dropped that evening like a ball of fire. And in the morning, we tossed Brendan’s surfboard, our snorkel gear, and sandwiches into our dinghy, Scout. We met them at a nearby wave break, anchoring just outside it. Brendan hopped in the chilly water with his board and paddled out to catch some waves. After a fun session and lunch, we take advantage of the rising tide to slip over the reef and dinghy to the famed Dean’s Blue Hole.

A blue hole is exactly what it sounds like; a large circular oceanic sinkhole that’s open to the surface. Dean’s Blue Hole is 202 meters (663 feet) deep, second only to the “Dragon Hole” in the South China Sea. Scientists are still trying to solve the many mysteries surrounding Dean’s Blue Hole. Blue holes are research hotbeds with a vast amount of knowledge that can be gained from these sites. Rare and unusual life, remnants of ancient civilizations, and vast amounts of information about the Earth’s past lie within these primeval treasure chests.

Unfortunately, Dean’s Blue Hole has also been called, Divers’ Tomb. As a renowned location for world record breaking freediving competitions, and beautiful tourist destination with little room for mistakes, it’s estimated about 200 people have died here in recent years.

We round the rocky cliff to find what looks like a large swimming pool right on the beach. Cradled by tall rocky cliffs, the brilliant color blue pops against the light beige sand. The closer we get, the center stays shadowed and darkened, resembling more of a meteor strike. We beach the boats, strap on mask and fins, and slip into the water.

When I was a kid, I remember seeing a cleaver donation box at the zoo that collected quarters by showing the spinning effects of gravity and velocity. Drop a coin in and watch it swirl around a funnel-like collection plate into what you hope is a good cause. When I dropped my face into the water at Dean’s Blue Hole, it reminded me of just that. The wide yet shallow sandy entrance pulls your curiosity towards the center of the depths hidden in darkness.

Snorkeling towards the middle, I see the platform that is used in freediving events, floating above the hole’s visual center. Thick metal cables clinging to the platform drop down into the darkness. I gulp in a breath and dive just below the surface. I spin around to see the vertical walls and ledges. My long brown ponytail follows my gaze, twirling around my head in slow motion, as lively as a puppy’s tail. I spot my sand hourglass. It enchants me like a mysterious waterfall, and I swim towards it for a closer look.

We spent several hours soaking up the beauty of this legendary place. Brendan and I take turns spotting each other’s dives. We peer under large ledges that widen the hole’s walls into chambers. We switch up free fin diving down with walking the cables with our hands, poking at our comfort levels with a safety pin. The boys jump off cliffs into the deep water, and we swim laps around the edge to admire the various reef fish, corals, and a different view of the mysterious blue hole itself.

Dean’s Blue Hole is a treasure. Host to dreamy vacations yet bearing a haunting history of tragic accidents. A place where records are set, dreams bloom, lives lost, stories from our planet’s past are written, and hope has sparked ablaze. As we exit the water, a beautiful memorial sits on the hole’s western shore. I think about the people whose name’s etched in granite, and their families. I think about my own family and how I miss them so much. I wonder the possibilities as Brendan starts Scout’s engine, and we all safely zip back home. Grateful for everything.

Back on Belafonte, we cook up dinner and recount the day’s adventures. We tidy up and set our sleep meters for the morning. Tomorrow is going to be a fun one! We have a reservation for a rental car, and it’s been quite awhile since we’ve steered four wheels. The game plan is set, and we head to bed reminiscing in shades of blue and dreaming of endless depths.

 ~ Day 78