Log 9: The Quest for Coconut Bread

“Now this is more like it!” We grin drifting into the quiet and well protected anchorage in the settlement of Black Point on Great Guana Cay. As soon as we walk off the dinghy dock, we immediately feel the Bahamian hometown vibes we’ve heard about.

Not long after we settle in, the coconut bread quest ensues. If you missed the last log, advice from a friendly acquaintance rings in our head to hunt down the famed coconut bread, that can evidently make even the saltiest of sailors swing off-route into Black Point. ‘Tis is tradition… first stop, food! We pop into a colorful, clean, and shaded restaurant overlooking the anchorage, Lorraine’s Café. Our food was delicious, and the fish fingers were the best I’ve had yet! We enjoy the views and chat with another couple near our table. A lady strolls in and orders a fresh salad and beverage. With a friendly smile, confident aura – and receiving lightning-fast service from the waitress – we easily pick up that she was an important woman.

She turns to us and asks how our day was going and how our food was. “Oh this is fantastic,” we say finishing up the last bite of fries. Then another waitress approaches her, “Hey Lorraine… can we take a photo together?” Ahhhh, this is Lorraine, of course! She obliges for the photograph and the waitress hurries back to work. The other couple quickly taps in, “hey Lorraine, what do you have going on for Easter?” They chat back and forth about Easter plans as we receive our bill, give thanks for the truly tasty lunch and head out to the road to find a small store to purchase coffee and inquire about this mysterious coconut bread people have been raving about. 

We pass Bahamian women weaving straw goods in the shade of their porches and stop into one of the small shops. It’s not much, but all the basics are covered. It almost seems as though a family had just converted one of the rooms in their home into a tiny convenient store. The friendly woman at the counter directs us to the cheapest instant coffee container and tells us that you can pick up the coconut bread in the house behind Lorraine’s Café. We laugh, seeing as we just left there. “Oh yes, it’s right ‘der,” she chuckles, “…but I t’ink she’s out fa’ today, maybe try in da’ morning. Just knock on the back door and she should be ‘der.” “Perfect, thank you!” We head out and continue our day with much needed chores such as laundry and making water. But as we head back to Belafonte, we pass by the quaint inconspicuous white house behind Lorraine’s and see no sign or indication coconut bread is sold there. It’s no wonder why we didn’t figure that out sooner. Well, it’s the only house fitting the description, hopefully, that’s it?

The loaves were still warm and soft. One loaf was her original coconut bread and the other was cinnamon coconut bread. As we slice open the cinnamon one, we melt into our seats. “Oh my… this is amazing…” Our delicious treat was worth the stop at Black Point alone! We finish our slices and stow away our own little chunk of the treasure. 

Morning comes and Brendan heads to shore to inquire about the local treasure. I stay on the boat to focus on writing and prep the boat for a soon departure. Not too long after, Brendan returns grinning from ear to ear to two large paper bags in hand. “Sooo, I guess she had some left?” I ask, mirroring his goofy smile. He pulls up his sunglasses, “I just met my Bahamian grandma,” he says holding up the prize. “That had to have been the sweetest lady I’ve ever met, besides my grandma of course; even the inside of their homes look the same!” We laugh and crinkle open one of the brown paper bags in anticipation.

Turns out, the sweet baker behind the magic bread is Lorraine’s mother. Her name is Ms. Pierman, and our bellies (“Belly” included) owe her much gratitude! It drew us into this pleasant settlement. Just as our pit-stop is focused around the bread, this log is as well; however, Black Point has much to offer! We also enjoyed exploring iguana filled beaches, eating great food, and there’s a famed blowhole nearby (which is where the ocean spray shoots up from the porous rocks like a whale’s blowhole)!

We also met another welcoming local who tells us of an incredible sailing regatta happening in Georgetown soon. “It’s da National Family Regatta… only Bahamian residents can enter the race… it’s da biggest event of the year! I’m on da sloop wit da red stripe, da only one like it!” “That sounds awesome!” we gleam back reflecting the excitement in his deep brown eyes, “Well hopefully we’re there in time! We will be rooting for you!” His pearly whites shining, “Oh thank you, hope to see you there!”

Later that evening, we meet another young couple on a beautiful Tatyana 37 sailboat named Dacia. We end up moseying over to the local yacht club with them, (which isn’t as fancy as some may imagine). We chat about sailing adventures and boat plans over another tasty meal. “Hey, we are planning to head to Oven Rock tomorrow, y’all should sail down there with us! We have similar boats, maybe we can race down there,” they say. Brendan and I look at each other. “Well, we have to go that way anyways, sounds great!”

In the morning, we snack on our prized coconut bread and prep for sail. By noon we lift the sails as Dacia follows suit. They close the gap and we both turned to port pointing south toward Oven Rock… Let the race, begin!

~ Day 49